London

Once again I would like to extend a warm welcome to GoingEuro.com. I have included travel guides that I use and an assortment of other books about London, along with restaurants, accommodations and shops that I am partial to; in addition to, web sites I found useful or just interesting. On this page I have assembled a diverse assortment of information from getting into central London from the airport to where to go for some really great cheese. You might say this is my odds and ends page. Everyone has one those drawers in their home where they throw just about everything into. Well, this is my digital version of such a drawer.

My first experience with London was through films and books, so I had a certain image of London in my mind. I was 26 years old when I made my first trip across the pond. I was not disappointed. To this day, I still have a vivid recollection of my taxi ride from Victoria Station to my hotel on the Strand. Every visit, I find something new and exciting I haven’t seen or done before. When I am leaving for the airport, I am always saddened until I am on the plane coming home, planning my next trip and thinking about all the fun things and wonderful sights I have yet to see and do. I hope your trips (notice the plural) are as memorable as mine have been. I would like to thank you in advance if you purchase any books or other products through GoingEuro.com. Your support is greatly appreciated.

Using public transportation to get from the airport into central London is the cheapest and probably the quickest way. From Heathrow there is direct rail service into Paddington Station via the Heathrow Express; the trip takes approximately 20 minutes and trains during the day run frequently. From Gatewick there is direct rail service into Victoria Station via the Gatewick Express; the trip takes approximately 35 or 40 minutes. When I am leaving and using public transportation, I like to allow plenty of time in case of train delays. For more information including train times and fares click on the respective links. Getting around London, The London Underground (affectionately called the Tube) is in all likelihood is the quickest way (especially during rush hour) to get from A to B given the large number of cars and the layout of London’s streets. The subway system is extensive and despite problems in recent years including service delays it’s still the best way to get around the city. On the weekend, I have noticed there tends to be service interruptions due to maintenance and upgrades to the system. Nothing to worry about, but definitely something to keep in mind. The red double-decker buses offer a great way to see the city; however, during rush hour they are not the quickest way to get around the city even though London does have dedicated bus lines. For information on the bus system visit Transport For London. On the site there is a Travel Journey, which I found extremely useful when planning my daily itinerary. Definitely take at least one ride on a double-decker (on top in the front is the best place to sit) because it is a great way to see the city. The Oyster Card is a great value for those who are planning on using the buses or the tube frequently. If you are planning on staying in London for 7 days consider getting the 7-Day Travel Card for Zones 1 & 2. Unlimited travel within those zones for a set price. Can be used on the tube and on buses as well. You can put the travel card on the Oyster Card for quick and easy access going through the turnstile. All you do is touch the Oyster Card on the yellow pad at select turnstiles. Given the cost of a single fare and the number of times I used the tube for getting around, I definitely saved money with the travel card. I purchased my card at a little newspaper shop in my hotel, but you can purchase it online before leaving or at one of the automated machines in the tube stations. For more information on the Oyster Card and Travelcard go to The London Transport.

When I arrive, I stop by a newsstand to purchase a copy of magazine, TimeOut London. It’s a great source for information on theater, film, concerts, art exhibitions and so on. You can also visit their web site to find out what’s happening. Two features I particularly like are “In London this week” and “Search what’s on in London”, the latter enables you to search by venue or type of event. Or you can subscribe to their weekly newsletter delivered right to your inbox. Another feature that is useful is the “London Cycling Guide”. London like any other large city has a large number of cars, taxis and buses on the streets, so if I decide to tootle around on a bicycle I want to make sure I know all the ins and outs (pros and cons) to cycling in London. Another online source for information on current art exhibitions, concerts, theater productions is The Official Web site for London.

I have an iPod Touch. If I need directions, before going out and while connected via Wifi to Internet, I select Maps and download the map/directions i.e. to the restaurant that I am going to for dinner. To be able to access maps and make changes in real time definitely has its advantages, but it also can be expensive because of roaming charges. In addition, dotted around London there are quite a few places such a cafes that offer free WiFi. So if I really need to access the Internet I can usually find a place to pop into that has WiFi. You can find a list of hotspots at Londist, which includes a map and TimeOut London. I have been looking for an App that is an off-line map of London with street search capability. I want to be able to locate a specific street by typing in the name. However, I haven’t been able to locate such App. So in the meantime I still take along my trusty spiral bound London A-Z Street Atlas. Call me old fashioned and sentimental. And you never know when the Internet might go down and sometimes it’s just easier and more convenient to get out a book and look something up. Even though lately I seem to become addicted to search for Apps on Itunes. I found one called London Museums that looks like it will be useful on my next trip. I also downloaded another App called London Tube, so I will be able access information about London’s subway system on my iPod Touch.

If you are planning on combining your trip to London with a trip to Paris and plan on traveling to Paris via the Eurostar (the trip usually takes a little under 3 hours), a company here in the US called Vacations by Plaza offers discounted tickets for US and Canadian citizens. I was in London this past New Years, decided to pop over to Paris for a long weekend to see an exhibition. I booked my ticket (at a really good price) through this company. I picked up the ticket at the Eurostar ticket office at St. Pancras, a beautiful restored Victorian building. In addition to having a obsession with Art Deco and Modern architecture, I also love Victorian architecture. My flight back to the US was on a Wednesday, so I decided to come back to London on Tuesday morning. I wanted a day to rest up before my flight home. I suppose I could have come back on Wednesday (I had a late afternoon flight), but traveling for an entire day would be too tiring. I am glad I combined my trip to London with a little excursion to Paris. The Eurostar is comfortable and quick, traveling between Paris and London is not a problem.

For guided walking tours, Original London Walks offer a nice selection of walking tours; from Shakespeare’s London (the Bankside) to The Inns of Court (Legal & Illegal) to Sherlock Holmes (221b Baker Street) to Jack the Ripper. Check out the web site for more information. There is even a walking tour that focuses on Oscar Wilde, which takes places on Saturdays. Conducted by Alan Titchard, who is the researcher for the Oscar Wilde Society. He dresses the part to perfection including a green carnation. London Bicycle Tour Company offers guided tours on bicycles. Check out their web site, they offered a variety of tours. You can also hire a bicycle for a day. They are located on the South Bank (Gabriel’s Wharf) between the Oxo Tower and the National Theatre. Another bicycle rental company is Go Pedal. They will drop off and pick up the bicycle(s).

The Worldwide Guide to Movie Locations is one of the best places on the Internet for information on films shot on location in London. There is an interactive map. You click on the dot and up pops a window with fascinating trivia on the location including what film was shot there. Ever since I was a boy, I have had a love for and fascination with London, so whenever a see an film that takes place in London, I always wonder where the film was shot. I was thrilled when I happened upon this web site a year or so ago and even more excited to discover, Movie London, a book on films shot in London . On my last trip, I took it with me. It was fun to see and visit places that up until that point I had only seen in films. I even had a drink in the pub that was used in the film, Victim with Dirk Bogarde. Well organized and probably the foremost book out there that covers this topic so thoroughly.

The London Pass is a great value! Access to 50 popular tourist attractions around London for one price. Available in 1, 2, 3 or 6 day passes. You can also combine the benefits of the Travelcard with the London Pass for unlimited travel on London’s public transportation system (valid for zones 1-6). Click on the link for additional information including Special Offers & Discounts offered with The London Pass.

London Parks & Garden Trust - one weekend a year many of London’s private garden squares and residential gardens are open to the general public. For ticket information and a list of the gardens go to Open Garden Squares Weekend. Speaking of gardens, Kew Gardens is definitely worth a visit. Even in winter there is something to see in gardens and hothouses . Click on the link for information including what’s in bloom, directions, which entrance (there are 4 entrances) to use, which depends on how you arrive. You can print off a copy of “Day Planner” that includes a map of the grounds. On the web site they advise allowing 3 to 4 hours for a visit to allow time to see everything. So if you are combining this trip with a visit to Hampton Court it’s best to arrive at 9:30 a.m. when the gardens open. Two ways to get to Kew Gardens are by The Tube or by boat (service starts in April). Going by boat is fun; however, the trip does take longer. Right across the river from Kew Gardens is Syon Park (the London home of the Dukes of Northumberland). In the 18th century Capability Brown was engaged to landscape the grounds and Robert Adam was employed to redesign the house. The Great Conservatory (built in 1830) is spectacular, as are the grounds and interior of the house. Syon Park is only about 1.8 miles from Kew, within easy walking distance. Leave via the main gate and cross Kew Bridge, turn left on the A315 and walk about another 1.3 miles and turn left on Brent Lea. In Andrew Duncan’s Walking London there is a delightful walk from Syon Park to Horace Walpole’s Gothic extravaganza, Strawberry Hill. South of Syon Park is another splendid garden at Hampton Court. Thames River Boats offers services to both Kew and Hampton Court from Westminster Pier or from Kew Gardens to Hampton Court. You can also walk from Kew Gardens to Hampton Court along the Thames Path, but it’s a long walk - something like 8 miles. For more detailed information about the walk click here. When I visited to Kew, I took the Tube (District Line to Kew Gardens Zone 3). I got on the line at Westminster and from there it took about - 1/2 hour to get to Kew Gardens Station. Once there I entered via the Victoria Gate. After my visit I hopped on the boat, Thames River Boats to Hampton Court. The trip took about a 1 1/2 hours, but it was a pleasant sunny day, and I enjoyed my cruise on the river a lot. Though getting back to London I decided to take a train (South West Trains) into Waterloo. The trip took between 30 to 40 minutes. It was a full day, and I wanted to get back London as quickly as possible to rest up before going out to dinner. Be sure to check the train times to see how often they run and whether or not the trains is direct or if you have to switch trains. This way you can coordinate your visit better. Hampton Court is also accessible via South West Trains from Waterloo Station. It takes approximately 35 minutes to get to Hampton Court from Waterloo Station. For additional information including directions to Hampton Court click on the link.

Professionals and nonprofessionals alike who have an interest in architecture should check out The New London Architecture gallery on Store Street (west of Russell Square). Another venue for architectural exhibitions is the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) HQ on Portland Place. The Victoria and Albert Museum has a permanent gallery showcasing objects such as models, drawings..... from the collection of the RIBA. For those interested in Art Deco buildings there is an itinerary for a walking tour of some of London’s Art Deco treasures at A Traveller’s Guide to London. Open House London (takes place in September) is an annual event that gives the general public an opportunity to see over 600 buildings, some of which are normally closed to the general public. An unique opportunity.

One of the great things about London (at least for me) is the incredible assortment of pubs and of course the variety of different types of beer and ale available. An excellent online resource is Pubs.com - a fun and informative web site. Not only will you learn about the history of the pubs, but you will also learn about “real ale”. There is a “Quick Pub Search” feature. You can search a pub by location, name or postal code. The current economic climate, a change in drinking habits and a ban on smoking all have had an adverse effect on pubs across the UK. Tragic because they are such an integral part of English history and culture. Every time I am in England I try to visit as many pubs as possible. I simply love the decor especially Victorian and the general atmosphere of pubs. I have developed quite an appreciation for British beer.

For the bibliophiles, John Sandoe Book Ltd in Chelsea is the quintessential London bookstore - warm, intimate, books scattered about the place with a friendly and knowledgeable staff. I found this gem while exploring Chelsea with the Time Out Book of London Walks Volume 2. The bookshop is mentioned in the walk, Behind the facade, by Sue Arnold. I would also like to add, I found a great fish n chips shop, Fryer’s Delight, in the same book while on another walk, Old Holborn, by Robert Elms. I found both walks fun and enjoyable. At the end of each walk there is an Eating & Drinking section. For rare and antiquarian books, prints and so on head to Cecil Court (a pedestrianized street between Charing Cross Road and St. Martin’s Lane, south of the Leicester Square tube station). It is filled with wonderful little shops. You feel like you have stepped back in time 100 years. One shop in particular that I like is Tindley and Chapman at number 41. They specialize in books on architecture and 20th century first editions. Another one of my favorite bookshops in Daunts on Marylebone High Street. The Edwardian interior is simply lovely. For travel related books there is Stanfords 12-14 Long Acre (near Convent Garden).

London and the umbrella go hand in hand. How can one think of the one without thinking of the other. The perfect place to go if you are in the market for an umbrella is James Smith & Sons, 53 New Oxford Street (just down the street from one of my favorite pubs, The Bloomsbury Tavern), here you will find an excellent assortment of umbrellas and impeccable service. I have been quite satisfied with the umbrella I purchased there. One thing to note, I had a rude awakening when I got to the airport to come home. I was flying out of Heathrow, going threw security and they told me umbrellas are no longer allowed on flights. Something about how they (umbrellas that is) can be used a lethal weapons. Needless to say I did not argue (I was tempted to say - in an exceedingly sarcastic tone - if it was okay to take my fountain pen on the plane since it had a sharp point, but I thought otherwise). I rushed back to the check-in counter and checked my umbrella and prayed it would not be damaged in transit since it was not packed in a cardboard box. Fortunately, the umbrella arrived back home in one piece without any being damaged. I understand the need for security, but I cannot understand how an 3 foot umbrella that does not even have a sharp point at the end could be used as a weapon. And it is a very light umbrella (part of why I bought it) so it’s not likely you could use it to bash someone over the head with. Anyway, my point is if you purchase an umbrella it might be wise to either have it shipped home or put it in your check-in luggage to protect it during the flight.

London is noted for the variety and numerous markets doted around the city. Portobello Road Market is probably the most well known market that sells everything you could possibly imagine. There is nothing more enjoyable to stroll around on lovely Saturday under blue skies with a cool breeze blowing. Even if I don’t buy anything, I enjoy just looking, listening and experiencing the energy and excitement. Another favorite market of mine and one that specializes in antiques and bric-à-brac is the Bermondsey Market in South London. Perhaps not as well known as Portobello Road Market, but just as interesting nonetheless. Open on Fridays from early in the morning (around 5 - 6 am) till early afternoon. One time I found a beautiful and unique set of tea spoons for a really great price. At the same time, a friend of mine picked up an assortment of exquisite tea cups. You can always find something nice at a reasonable price to bring home as a memento. I find markets in general fun, to browse and think about the history of the items for sale. And of course once you find something to haggle over the price. Remember the rule of thumb with markets - the earlier the better. Even though a part of me thinks this is futile because of the dealers who seem to get the best deals before anyone else. I usually take the tube to London Bridge, when leaving the station I use the south exit, making a left on St. Thomas Street. I walk until I reach Bermondsey Street and make a right on Bermondsey Street, which runs runs into Bermondsey Square where the market is held. It is about a 20 minute walk. You can also take the tube to Elephant & Castle then take the number 1 bus or the number 188 bus. The market is east of the tube station. I would also like to mention the Spitalfields Market, it’s hard to believe not so long ago this covered market from 1887 was threatened with demolition. Fortunately, it was saved and today you can spend a Sunday wondering around the different vendors and shops. For more information click on the link. Nearby is the Dennis Sever’s House, a wonderful house museum or to quote Mr. Severs “a theatrical experience”.

For those who are renting an apartment, and plan on doing some cooking Northcote Road is one of the best places to go for food. A little out of the way in Clapham, but well worth the trek. For more more information including directions click on the link above. A vanishing bred and one of the few streets left in London where the stores are still individually owned. Along this street you will find an excellent butcher, Dove and Son, a superb cheese shop, Hamish Johnston, a great wine shop, Philglas & Swiggot (I just love the name) along with other shops including a bakery and shops that sell nonfood items, so even if you are not planning on cooking and are not in the market for fresh meat or poultry (even though you can always pick up some cheese and wine for a picnic) you might find a nice gift to take home for yourself or for a friend. Nearby are Clapham Common and Wadsworth Common. Another good place to go for food is The Borough Market, a foodie’s paradise, close to London Bridge and housed under Victorian iron arches. Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest days, Thursday tends to be less crowded. You can always pick up some teas, preserves or oils to bring home and they do hand out free samples to keep you going until lunch or afternoon tea.

One other shop I would like mention and a rather fun shop at that is Davenports Magic Shop, Charing Cross Underground Arcade (off the Strand, across the street from Charing Cross Train Station). Ever since I was a child, I have been fascinated with magic. I was pleasantly surprised one day when I was just walking around and stumbled upon this shop, which brought back fond memories from my childhood, trying to learn coin and card tricks (not vert successfully).

Movie London