Venice

Once again I would like to extend a warm welcome to GoingEuro.com. I have included travel guides (in the Travel Store) that I like to use, along with restaurants, accommodations and shops that I am partial to; in addition to, web sites that I found useful or just interesting. On this page I have assembled a diverse assortment of information from getting into Venice from the airport to where to buy an authentic Venetian mask to take home as a souvenir of your trip. You might say this is my odds and ends page. Everyone has one those drawers in their home where they throw just about everything. Well, this is my digital version of such a drawer.

Once again I would like to extend a warm welcome to GoingEuro.com. I have included travel guides (in the Travel Store) that I like to use, along with restaurants, accommodations and shops that I am partial to; in addition to, web sites that I found useful or just interesting. On this page I have assembled a diverse assortment of information from getting into central Rome from the airport to where to go to pick up nifty souvenir of your trip. You might say this is my odds and ends page. Everyone has one those drawers in their home where they throw just about everything. Well, this is my digital version of such a drawer.

Venice is one of my favorite cities. I never compare Venice to Rome, Paris or New York because each city is unique and deserves to be appreciated for what each individual city has to offer. My preferred time to visit is during the off season. Less crowds and less humidity. August can be crowded and humid. Granted towards the end of November can be cold, wet and damp and you might have to put up with flooding, but usually the water goes down fairly quickly. For me the empty streets (or near empty, you will always run across at least a cat) affords me the opportunity to admire the architecture and really think about the people and the history of “la Serenìsima” without being bothered or jostled. With less people you will also be able to get a good look and enjoy the artwork and mosaics without feeling rushed in places like St. Marks Basilica and The Doge Palace. I do admit, if I am visiting in November, December or January, I do bring a couple of warm sweaters. Churches and large scuolas such as Scuola Grande di San Rocco can especially be chilly in the winter months. I find dressing in layers is the way to go. As with most things in life, it’s a trade off. I prefer to go when there are less people so I can appreciate the artwork in relative peace. Of course there are exceptions, for example going to the Venice Biennale Art Festival (usually is held from June to November). September would be the ideal time to go. Some of the art installations are housed in the cavernous buildings of the old arsenal where they built ships. Though the buildings have been updated for use as exhibition spaces they are still too large to heat properly, especially given the Venetian climate. I attended the Biennale towards the end of November (actually on the last day), it was a little chilly walking through the exhibitions house in the old arsenal buildings. Another exception would be to visit at least once in the summer to see and experience the Lido. After seeing the film, Death in Venice I have always dreamed in staying at one of the grand hotels on the Lido. One day I shall. And on the Lido you probably get more of a breeze making it more comfortable and cooler than in Venice proper. In the Winter the hotels are closed. Since the Lido faces the Adriatic, I am sure it can be quite windy and chilly. Yet it might be enjoyable walking along the beach with a brisk wind blowing and the waves crashing. I guess it shows life is what you make it. You can find beauty and enjoyment in anything if you put your mind to it.

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The airport (Marco Polo) is located on the mainland. The quickest and most comfortable way to arrive in Venice is by water taxi; unfortunately, this mode of transportation is expensive. An alternative and considerably cheaper option is the water bus service run by Alilaguna srl. If my wallet can take the shock. I opt for the water taxi. One reason, it’s a great way to arrive in a city that is built in the middle of a lagoon and the other reason is you get dropped off at your hotel or at least within a short walking distance. After a particularly long flight it’s a godsend not to have to lug your luggage about. Also the water bus does take longer because there are more than one stop. Something to consider when deciding whether or not to take a water taxi. Sometimes it’s worth spending a little extra if you can fit it into your budget.

Getting around Venice is not only easy, but enjoyable as well because it’s one of the most beautiful and sublime cities in the world. You can wonder around for hours in total bliss. There are no cars or bicycles to worry about or draw your attention away from the splendid architecture. You can be total oblivious and not worry about getting run over. In case you need to get across the Grand Canal and are not near one of the bridges that span the canal or you are in a hurry there are the traghetti (six locations). Basically a gondola with none of the fancy accouterments (usually you stand up) that ferry people across from one side to the other side. For longer distances or to get to the other islands, such as Murano or Burano there are water buses called vaperatto. For questions regarding the public transportation system go to ACTV (there is an English version). A good way to see the facades of the fabulous palazzos that line the Grand Canal is a trip on the Vaporetto line number 82 starting at the train station. Below is a photo of a traghetti crossing the Grand Canal. I have no idea why the photo is crooked. I took it in the morning so I could not have had too much “vino”. Oh well - one of life’s mysteries.

The Venice Card is a great value. Available in 1 day, 3 day and 7 day passes. You can now purchase it online by going to http://www.veniceword.com/venicecard2.html. The card allows you unlimited travel on the public transportation system and includes admission to the following museums:

Palazzo Ducale
Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico
Biblioteca Marciana
Ca’ Rezzonico
Casa Goldoni
Palazzo Mocenigo
Museo del Merletto (the Lace museum on Burano)
Museo del Vetro (the glass museum on Murano

For more information click here.

La Biennale di Venice (The Venice Biennale) - This link will take you to their web site (English version). I don’t get “most” of the art, but I have to say it was a pretty interesting experience. And there were some pieces I liked.

The Venice Film Festival - Never been, but it sounds fun. Perhaps one day. (English version)

The Venetian Carnival - Talking about a fun and exciting time to be in Venice. Everyone should experience this at least once. I do think the high point was the wild and crazy 80’s and 90’s. In recent years due to budget restraints the public activities have been cut. I am sure there are still tons of private parties in those opulent and over-the-top palazzos. The site has information on the next carnival in 2009 and past carnivals as well.

Atelier Flavia - An excellent source for a costume for the festivities. The web site is in Italian.

Avventure Bellissime - Offers guided walking tours of Venice.

Two worthwhile organizations (one American, one British) who raise money to help protect Venice for future generations are SaveVenice and Venice in Peril respectively. To learn more and to find out how you can help to protect and preserve Venice check out their web sites

Are you in the market for a gondola? Or would you just like to know a little but more about these intriguing boats? Well, in either case you might want to take a look at Squero Canaletto. You will be able to actually purchase a gondola or if you are not in the market for one just learn about the history and construction of this fascinating water craft.

Speaking of gondolas, a trip to Venice would not be complete without a trip down the canals in one. Granted it is a little pricey, but the experience is worth the expense. There are a number of places throughout the city where you can hire a gondola, just look for the word “stazio”. The biggest stands are located around St. Marks Square including the Bascino Orseolo (located behind the square), the Calle Vallaresso (west of St. Marks Square), and the Molo (directly in front of the Doge’s Palace). For the official rates pick up a copy of Un Ospite a Venezia (A Guest in Venice). Be sure to finalize the cost before departing. Goes the same for water taxies .

VeniceWord International - Sends out a newsletter via e-mail that will keep you up-to-date with news stories and what’s happening such as exhibits, concerts, theater and so on.

La Ricerca, Ponte delle Ostreghe, San Marco Tele: 041 5228250. Nice selection of photo albums covered in marbled paper.

Bressanelo Artstudio, Calle Lunga Tele: 41 724 1080. Off the Campo San Barnaba. I purchase a beautiful print of a photograph here as a souvenir on my trip.

Mistero Buffo, S. Basegio, Dorsoduro Tele: 41 523 8719. Off the Fondamenta Zattere. Wonderful little mask shop near the Church of San. Sebastino. The masks are handmade in Venice by the owner of the shop. I like to support local craftspeople. Ca’ Macana, Calle della Botteghe (located over a bridge off the Campo San Barnaba), Dorsoduro 3172. The shop has an excellent selection and one of the largest stocks of fantasy and commedia dell’arte masks in Venice. They also offer classes where you can actually make a mask. Another good mask shop in terms of variety both modern and traditional in the Dorsoduro is Mondonovo, Rio Tera Canal (off Campo Santa Margherita). Of course you will find masks shops all over Venice. I personally like the three shops I mentioned, but I also like to hunt around for little “mom and pop” shops that sell and make the masks themselves. I like to try and support the little guy as well as the larger shops as long as the masks are made in Venice by Venetian craftsman.

When I rented an apartment across two supermarkets. One is Billa, on the Fondamenta Zattere Ponte Lungo (near the San Basilio vaporetto stop) in Dorsoduro and is open seven days a week. The other supermarket, Punto Sma, is also located in the Dorsoduro on the Campo Santa Margherita, but is closed on Sunday. A little difficult to find since you there are no street numbers in Venice. The supermarket is on the west side of the campo. Start from from the north end of the campo and start walking along the west side towards the church l Carmini and you will find it. A large open air market that sells fresh fish, herbs, fruits and vegetables is held at the Fabbriche Nuove, Fabbriche Vecchie and Campo d. Pescaria (near the Rialto) in San Polo, in the mornings Monday - Saturday. I cooked a couple times and this is where I came for ingredients. There is also a butcher off the Piazza Erbaria. As you are walking towards the Fabbriche Vecchie coming from the Rialto the shop will be on your left and the Grand Canal will be on your right. You will also find several bakeries in the area as well. For basic and everyday items I went to the supermarket, but for fish, vegetables and so fourth, I prefer fresh markets over supermarkets. However, you do have to be practical and a large supermarket does to stock a lot items including nonfood items. Of course for poultry and meats I much prefer to go to a good butcher and a good bakery for bread. You cannot beat a fine cut of veal or fresh baked bread.