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Once again I would like to extend a warm welcome to GoingEuro.com. I have included a list of guidebooks; in addition to, restaurants, accommodations and shops that I am partial to along with other web sites I found useful or just interesting.
One of the many things I love about Paris is no matter what time of the year you go there is always something to see or do. In the Spring, there is the Musee Rodin with its beautiful gardens sprinkled with sculptures by the master sculptor Rodin. In the summer, to cool off you can take a dip in a swimming pool that literally floats on the Seine. In the fall, the Luxembourg Gardens is an ideal place to go on a sunny afternoon with a cool breeze ruffling th leaves on the trees is paradise. During the winter, there are indoor activities such as exploring the Lourve or the d’Orsay. And of course, no trip to this magical city would be complete without a walk along the Seine with the Lourve behind you walking towards the gothic towers of Notre Dame. Just be sure to button up if you are taking a stroll along the river in January because it can be quite nippy. However, August can be a bad month because a lot of shops and restaurants close and the heat and humidity. Another bad time (at least for restaurants) is a week or two right after Christmas. People leave the city and go home for the holidays, so some restaurants are closed and do not reopen until around January 7th.
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I find having a cell phone is wonderful. I have got to the point where I am not sure what I would do without one. One option especially if you plan to travel to Europe on a fairly regular basis is to purchase an unlocked GSM cell phone. Once you arrive at your destination, you stop in a shop and purchase a SIM card, pop it into the phone and you are good to go. You will get a different cell phone number, which isn’t really a big deal. Do a google search for “unlocked GSM cell phones” and you will pull up a number of different companies who sell unlocked GSM phones. Another option is to rent an International cell phone from companies like Cellhire. You will find pricing on their web site. You can shop around to see which option works best for you.
I have a Samsung GSM cell phone; my service provider is AT&T. If you have a GSM cell phone, ask your service provider if they are offer International service
and if your cell phone is locked or unlocked. If it is locked you cannot switch out the SIM card. If it is unlocked you can go with switching out the SIM card option. One of the reasons I went with AT&T is they offer International service. Before I go on vacation I call them up and add the Global service to my account. The additional fee is around $6.95 per month. Roaming charges for the phone is a little more than $1.00 per minute. It’s expensive, but I try not to use my cell phone unless I really need to. For most part I communicate with people back home via e-mail. These days you can usually find either an Internet Café or some shop where you can check your e-mail (for a small fee). And if you bring your laptop your hotel might offer wireless Internet or have PC in the lobby guests can use. I find having a cell phone is especially convenient when traveling with someone. For example, if we are going to meet somewhere and one of you is running late, you can let the other person know what’s up. Another plus is you can make restaurant reservations. Even though most of the time I ask the front desk at the hotel to make restaurant reservations on my behalf. One of the advantages of staying in a hotel.
Free Wifi is available in parks and public spaces. However, sometimes before I go out and while connected to the Internet via Wifi in my hotel room I select Maps on my iPod Touch and download the map/directions i.e. to the restaurant I am planning on going to. I admit accessing the map on the go would be easier, but those expensive roaming charges can add up quickly. Some cafes also offer free Wifi. For a list go to Cafe Wifi. I have been looking for an off-line App that has a map of Paris with a street search. I want to be able to locate a specific street by typing in the name.
Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to locate such an app. However, I don’t really have a problem with accessing the Internet on the go because of he number of hotspots doted around the city in parks and public spaces along with cafes that offer free WiFi.
I find the quickest and the most economical way to get from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport into Paris is the RER (Regional Express Network) line B. The trip to Gare de Nord takes approximately 40 minutes and to Chatelet-Les Halles about 45 minutes. Paris Airport Shuttle is an alternative to public transportation. They can arrange transport into the city either by shuttle bus or a private car. One of the advantages of using this service over public transportation is you get door-to-door service, but of course the trade off is its more expensive.
Getting around the city is not a problem, Paris has one of the best subway systems in the world, both in terms of service and cost. The Paris Visite card is a good idea for those who will be using public transportation frequently. Available in 1, 2, 3 or 5 day passes, for use on buses and Metro. Another option is the Carte Orange (weekly or monthly passes are available), valid from Monday-Sunday. The public transportation system is operated by RATP. The web site has an English version for the itinerary planner. If you are leaving from JFK in New York City you can purchase the Paris Visite Pass at the Metropole Facile in Terminal 1. Once you arrive at CDG you can use the pass on the RER. For additional information on the Paris Viste Pass or to purchase online go to
Paris Visite Pass- Metro travel and more 
If you are purchasing individual tickets or a buying a ten pack (Carnet), which is slightly cheaper (a better deal) at one of the automated machines you will need to look for one that accepts cash or go to a window to use an American style credit card. France has switched over to a “chip and pin” type of credit card, so you cannot use your American credit cards in automated machines either on the RATP or the SNCF (suburban and long distance rail systems). The credit card terminals in places such as shops, restaurants and hotels are setup to accept either type of credit card. Personally I have never had a problem paying with my credit card in shops or restaurants; however, just be prepared because you never know. It is always a good idea to have enough cash on hand just in case. Or inquire beforehand if they accept American style credit cards. From what I have read banks in the US have no interest at least in the foreseeable future to switch over to the pin and chip type of credit card, even though the rest world is switching over including Mexico and Canada. If I happen to hear of a bank in the US issuing this type of credit card I will post the information on GoingEuro.com.
The Pariscope (a weekly guide) is useful for finding out current films, theater, concerts, art exhibitions and so fourth. There is a section on what’s happening in English. This publication is available at some hotels and newsstands.
Another source for information and published in English is The Paris Free Voice (published monthly). There is a list of cultural activities for the month. You can purchase the newspaper at bookstores who cater to the ex-pat community such as The Shakespeare and Co in the Latin Quarter or the Village Voice Bookstore in St. Germain-des-Pres. You may also find this publication in cafes and restaurants that are frequented by Americans or Brits.
Time Out has an online city guide for Paris at www.timeout.com/paris/. Under the section called "This Week" there are current listing for events and exhibitions.
Once I decided to go on a picnic in the Boise de Boulogne. Being May 1st (a national holiday in France) many of the museums and other attractions were closed so I thought why not go on a picnic. I had never been to the Boise de Boulogne before. The day before I stopped by La Grande Epicerie Paris in the Le Bon Marche department store for all the food essentials including wine, cheese, sausage, fruit and so on. For fresh baked bread I decided to stop at a small local bakery near my hotel in the Marais. I stopped by the BHV on the rue de Rivoli for basic eating utensils and the all important wines glasses and a knife for the cheese and sausage. Once I gathered together all my picnic supplies I headed off for the park around 11:00. After exploring the Boise de Boulogne, I eventually settled for a lovely spot beside the lake. I could not have asked for better weather.
Afterwards I decided to take a stroll and ended up at the Parc de Bagatelle. One of the most beautiful gardens in Paris. The garden is just simply breathtaking. Below are a couple of snapshots I took. The photos do not do the garden justice, but they give you a sense of how beautiful the garden is. What a wonderful day I it was. I can till remember the smell the flowers
If you are planning on going up into the towers of the Cathedrale Notre-Dame be sure to arrive early, the line for this popular attraction can get quite long especially during high season. Entry to the cathedral itself is free, but there is an admission charged for the towers. Well worth the price of admission for the view of Paris and to see the famous gargoyles.
Parisinfo.com is the “official web site of the Paris
Convention and Visitors Bureau” and a good online source to find out what’s going on in Paris
Discover France - Cycling tours and guided walking tours throughout France.
The Original Paris Walks - Offers many walks with a different focus/theme. Their web site lists the walks along descriptions.
Succulent Tours - Two hour guided tours that focus on the culinary aspect of the city. I haven’t gone on a tour myself, but from what I have read on their web site the tours sound pretty interesting. Perhaps on my next trip especially since one of the reasons I go to Paris is for the food. It would be wonderful to have an expert who lives in the city show me around.
After visiting the Carnavalet Museum I stopped in their gift shop and found a wonderful book (in English) on the Marais aptly called The Marais - A Historical and Architectural Guide (ISBN: 2-84742-054-1) by Alexandre Gady. Mr. Gady is an instructor at the Sorbonne and holds a doctorate in art history. The book is divided up into 9 different walks that explore the Marais. I found the walks fun and really enjoyed learning a little more about the history and architecture of the area that you normally don’t find in a general guide book. I haven’t come across another book in English that goes into such detail about the history and architecture of the Marais.
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Lodging
The Marais is a fun, vibrant, diverse area. The narrow streets are filled with wonderful neighborhood bistros and cafes, chic boutiques and museums such as the Musee National Picasso and Musee Carnavalet both of which are housed in beautiful restored palatial townhouses. There are art galleries and antique shops around the Place des Vosges (the oldest and one of the loveliest squares in Paris). Henri IV developed the area in 17th century and it quickly became popular with the aristocracy who built grand hotels (townhouses). Many of which survive today as museums, offices and apartments. In the summer the Hotel de Albret hosts jazz concerts during the Paris Quartier d’ete Festival. The Place des Vosges is a wonderful place to hang out on a fine afternoon to either relax or read a book. Overall it is a great neighborhood except some days the throngs of people out and about can be tedious, but what can you do - it is part of the charm of big cities. And if you did not have the people it would not be a fun and happening place. Below is a photo the Place des Vosges.
On several occassions I have stayed at the moderately priced Hotel de la Bretonnerie. The building dates back to the 17th century and oozes with charm. The rooms (slightly on the small side, but it is Paris and in this price range it is difficult to find large rooms in a central location) are beautifully decorated and quite comfortable and I had no complaints about the service. They offer breakfast (not included in the price of the room) in the morning in a quaint and cheerful breakfast room. The hotel is located off of Rue des Archives on Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie. The Lourve is a 10 to 15 minute walk away, Notre Dame and the Latin Quarter are a 5 to 10 minute walk and the Pompidou about a 5 minute walk away. There are also several metro stops nearby. I chose a charming duplex on the second floor overlooking the Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie. Usually in the evening before going out to dinner I would open the window and just stand there watching the people walk by. The neighborhood has such a fun and vibrant feel to it. The windows are double glazed to keep out noise. The Rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie is not a major thoroughfare and caters mostly to pedestrian traffic.
On my next trip a I rented an apartment in the northern part of the Marais. It was little more expensive than the hotel, but the extra room was worth the added expense. Definitely worth considering if you are staying for a week or more because of the extra room and access to a kitchen. If you are planning on preparing full meals (I highly recommend cooking a meal or two and visiting the local markets for the ingredients) be sure to inquire whether or not the kitchen has a stovetop with oven and set of pots and pans along with utensils. I booked my apartment through a company called Paris Marias. I was satisfied with both the apartment and booking company.
A side note, one of the best and largest open air markets (wonderful selection of produce, cheeses and so fourth) is off the Place de la Bastille on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir. Takes place on Thursdays and Sundays. On Saturday there is an Arts and Crafts Market.
On my most recent trip I stayed at Hotel Saint Paul le Marais near the Place des Vosges. It is a 3 star hotel. My room was comfortable and decorated nicely (somewhat on the small size), but like I have said before in this price range you probably will not be able to get a bigger room elsewhere in a central location. The main thing for me is the room is clean and comfortable with a nice bathroom. The hotel staff were friendly and knowledgeable. In the lobby their is a PC to access the Internet and in the rooms you have wireless Internet connection. I had a nice stay and would definitely go back.
I had afternoon tea at Chez Charlotte in the lovely Hotel des Academies et des Arts Paris near the Jardin du Luxembourg. Modern and chic decor with macaroons to die for. I thought perhaps on my next trip I would stay here so I asked if I could see one of the rooms. I was impressed with the decor and amenities. Be sure to check out their web site under “Special Offers”, they do offer special deals on room rates from time to time. At the very least stop in for afternoon tea. Perhaps after a visit to the Musee Bourdelle or after a stroll in the Jardin du Luxembourg.
When I find a hotel I like, I check on PricelineEurope just to make sure I am getting the best price.
PricelineEurope.com - Discount Hotels in 53 Countries Worldwide 
Restaurants
A lot of restaurants are closed either on Sunday or Monday and sometimes on both days. A few are open 7 days a week, but many restaurants are small mom and pop operations, which is why they are closed either one or two days a week to give the owners some much needed rest. Lunch is usually served from around 12:00/12:30 to around 2:00/2:30. Restaurants reopen for dinner around 7:30/8:00. Most Parisians seem to eat around 9:00 so if you want to eat with the locales so speak book your table for 8:30 or 9:00. If you would like a lighter meal there are many wonderful little bistros and brasseries where you can have a light, simple and delicious meal. Bistros and brasseries tend to be open on Sundays and Mondays. I like yo speak French (I don’t speak very well, but I do my best) when ordering in a restaurant. Even if your French isn’t perfect, it goes along way to show respect and believe or not the the restaurant staff do appreciate your efforts to speaks their language. And always be polite and say “merci beaucoup”. You will need to ask for the check “l'addition, s'il vous plaî”, they will not automatically bring you the check. The French believe you should enjoy the meal and not feel rushed. If you have a question or need something a nice little hand gesture and smile will get your waiters attention. Never use the antiquated word “ garçon”. Put yourself in the other person’s shoes and think how you would feel if someone addressed you in a condescending or rude way. And if you do have a problem with something be patient. It’s difficult sometimes even when everyone speaks the same language so it makes it more difficult when you are in a foreign country. As the old saying goes “you can attract more bees with honey then you do with vinegar”. Restaurants want you to have great time and do their very best to be accommodating. Of course we do not live in a perfect world so sometimes things do happen. Just be patient and work with the waiter to solve the problem. I have found negativity only makes the situation worse. I honestly do believe a positive and pleasant attitude makes a big difference in a difficult situation.
Fodor's French for Travelers (CD Package), 2nd Edition (Fodor's Languages/Travelers)
(comes with CDs and a book) quite useful and includes a section on ordering in restaurants and over 3,800 common words and phrases. It’s pretty basic (good for the beginner or someone who wants to brush on their French). You can’t beat the price and it will help when ordering in restaurants, with shopping and with checking into hotels. For those (beginners to intermediates) who would like a more in depth study of the French language there is
Ultimate French Beginner-Intermediate (CD/Book) (LL(R) Ultimate Basic-Intermed)
One other thing to note is the French do not like to overcook their meat (beef, lamb and so fourth) so keep this in mind. The phrase in French for “well done” is “très bien cuit” and for “medium” is “bien cuit”.
These are just a few of my favorite restaurants in Paris. I hope you will enjoy eating at these places as much as I have and that my “dining out” tips are helpful. Bon Appétit!
Au Bourguignon du Marais 52, rue Francois Miron, 4th Arris Tele: 01 48 87 15 40. Nearest metro station: St. Paul. Moderately priced classic bistro cuisine.
Au Gamin de Paris 51, rue Vieille du Temple, 4th Arris Tele: 01 42 78 97 24. Nearest metro station: Hotel de Ville. French-Southwestern. A great neighborhood bistro with marvelous ambiance. Moderately priced.
L’Ambassade d’Auvergne, 22 rue du Grenier-St-Lazare (north of the Pompidou right off of the Rue Beaubourg), 3rd Tele: 01 42 72 31 22. Nearest metro: Arts et Metiers. Regional Cuisine: Auvergnat. Hearty food and rustic decor. Food is moderately priced with a reasonably priced wine list. Reservations advisable. The food was excellent as well as the service.
Baracane 38, rue des Tournelles, 4th Arris Tele: 01 42 71 43 33. Nearest metro station: Chemin Vert. Small friendly restaurant specializing in French-Southwestern cuisine. Moderately priced. Reservations advisable. Not far from the beautiful Place des Vosges. One of my personal favorites. I had dinner here twice for New Year’s Eve and had a wonderful time on both occasions.
Comptoir du Relais 9 carrefour de l’Odeon, 6th Arris Tele: 33 1 44 27 07 97. Nearest Metro station: Odeon. Excellent little bistro in the St Germain. Moderately priced given the exceptional food. During the week they offer a changing six course tasting menu that is gastronomical delight that is quite reasonable. Advanced booking is necessary due to the popularity of the restaurant and that fact it is not a large restaurant. During the weekend they do not accept reservations so first come, first serve nor do they offer the tasting menu, but the food on the a la carte menu food is still just as incredible and delicious as the food on the tasting menu. They also serve a wonderful lunch, but be sure to get there early enough to get a table. I liked to arrive around 11:50am to ensure I get a table. They open for lunch around noon. One other thing to note if you decide to eat outside the tables are pretty close together (be careful not to eat your neighbors food - it’s very tempting) so opt for one of the two end tables they are beside the door into the restaurant. You will have more room. This has become one of my favorite restaurants is Paris.
Huîtrerie Régis, 3 rue de Montfaucon (off of Blvd Saint Germain), 6th Arris Tele: 01 44 41 10 07. Nearest metro station: Mabillon. An exceptionally priced oyster bar with an excellent service. Not a lot of tables. Great place to go if you are in the mood for oysters. Popular with both locals and tourists.
Le Bar’a Huitres 33 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd Arris Tele: 01 48 87 98 92. Nearest metro station: Bastille. Seafood restaurant - specialty fresh shellfish. The prices are quite reasonable for fresh seafood. Friendly staff. Reservations advisable.
Le Dome du Marais, 53bis rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4th Arris. Tele: 01 42 74 54 17. Nearest metro station: Rambuteau. New French cuisine. They use only the freshest (seasonal) ingredients to create interesting dishes. Pleasant decor (the main dining room has a spectacular octagonal dome). The building was at one time one of the city’s “Official” Pawn Brokers, which explains the large airy “banking hall” type of ambiance. Exceptional food and wonderful. Reservations advisable.
Le P’tit Troquet 29, rue de l’Exposition, 7th Arris Tele: 01 47 05 80 39. Nearest metro station: Ecole Militairie. Cozy traditional bistro is not far from the Eiffel Tower. Moderately priced.
Le Reminet 3, rue des Grands Degres, 5th Arris Tele: 01 44 07 04 24. Nearest metro station: Maubert-Mutualite. Charming setting in the Latin Quarter not far from Notre Dame. Exceptional service. Great food. Reservations advisable. Moderate - Expensive. Contemporary French cuisine.
I would also like to mention Cafe Lenotre, 10 avenue des Champs Elysees (right across from the Grand Palais) Tele: 33 1 42 65 85 10. I did not have dinner or lunch, but I did stop by one afternoon after a particular long stroll for a desert and coffee. I had ice cream filled macaroons along with a cappuccino both of which were delicious. I can’t wait to go back and try all their other pastries. The building was built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition in a rather grand style and setback from the Champs-Elysées in the garden that boarders this stretch of the avenue. There is an outside dining area which I opted for since it was a beautiful Spring day. The sun was out and there was a cool breeze. The perfect day to sit and enjoy a delicious desert and sip a cappuccino. Hopefully on my next trip I can stop by for lunch.
Museums and Art Exhibitions
I’ve found purchasing tickets for temporary art exhibitions in advance is a good idea . On one of my trips I went to see the Turner, Whistler, Monet exhibit at the Grand Palais without purchasing a ticket in advance. When I arrived in the morning, I could not get in because the morning was reserved for advanced tickets holders only. The exhibition did not open to the general public until 1:00 pm. It wasn’t too bad because it was a bright sunny day, so I decided to go for a walk along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower and walk back through the sides streets between the Palais de Chaillot and the Grand Palais. However when I returned I had to stand in line for about 35 minutes before I actually entered the building. Also I am sure the exhibition would have been less crowded because the tickets have a time entry on them. Your ticket has a time on it. For example, 10:00 am, 11:00 am etc.
The Paris Museum Pass is a good deal. Available in 2, 4 or 6 day cards. Some 60 museums and monuments participate including the Arc de Triomphe, Centre Pompidou, Musee d’Orsay, The Lourve, Musee Gustave Moreau and Musee National Moyen Age, just to name a few. Basically for one set price you have access to all these places. Its a good value for those planning on seeing a lot during their stay. The cost to get into museums and other attractions can add up to a tidy sum. You can purchase the card in a number of places including at the individual museum/monument, major metro stations and the lld de France Tourist information desk at the Carousel du Lourve. For more information go to www.intermusees.com (in French and English).
Here are a few museums in Paris that I am particularly fond of:
Centre Georges-Pompidou is a “must see” just for the building itself. The premier venue for contemporary/modern art in Paris. The museum is open everyday
except Tuesday until 9:00 pm. There is also a rooftop restaurant. The Stravinsky Fountain between the Pompidou and St.-Merri church is quite fascinating and highly original. The modern sculptors in the fountain illustrate the works of great composers.
The Louvre is one of the world largest museums with a priceless and diverse collection; from paintings to sculpture to decorative arts. It could literally take days, weeks or even months to really see everything. The quality and quantity of the works of art explain the popularity of the museum. I usually purchase my ticket (if I don’t go with the Musees et Monuments Card) in advance. You do pay a surcharge, but I find its worth it to be able to use the Passage Richelieu entrance if the line at main entrance (The Pyramid) is too long. Only people with advanced tickets can use this entrance. I have also found getting to the museum first thing the morning helps (somewhat) to avoid the long lines. One other thing to remember is some of the rooms are closed on a rotating basis. On my last trip in the Spring I forget to check to see what rooms were closed on the day I was planning on visiting. One of the rooms I especially wanted to visit with paintings of Venice was closed that day, so it’s a good idea to check to see what rooms are closed before your visit if you have your heart set on seeing something particular. I did not do this, but the Rough Guide to Paris recommends visiting the Denon Wing (this is where the Mona Lisa is located) either Monday or Wednesday in the evening. The museum is open late on these two days. One other thing I would like to mention, you can leave the museum and come back later on that same day. I like spend at least two days visiting the museum and prefer going in the morning. The disadvantage of during this way is the cost of an extra admission ticket, but I tend to get overwhelmed given the size of the museum if I spend too much time there in a single day.
Musee Carnavalet chronicles the history of Paris from pre-Roman times to the 20th century. Located in palatial hotel (mansion) in the historic Marais district. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions and has a beautiful garden. Well worth a visit. They also have an original interior of a boutique designed in the Art Nouveau style along with a Art Deco ballroom and a reconstruction of Marcel Proust’s bedroom. During the warm months you can relax in the courtyard gardens. Below is a photo of the courtyard.
Musee de la Magie (Magic Museum) in the Marais is fun and fascinating place to visit for those who are interested in the world of magic and illusions. You can purchase a booklet in English that gives an overview of the collection. The web site is in French.
Musee Grevin is a cool wax museum and not just for kids.
Musee Gustave-Moreau was the home and studio of the Symbolist artist Gustave Moreau. When the artist died in 1898 he left the house and its contents to the nation with instructions that nothing was to be altered, so what you see today is the way he left it (including unfinished works of art) when he kicked the bucket over 100 years ago. I find museums like this especially interesting because you get to see how the artist lived and worked.
Musee Jacquemart-Andre is a small delightful museum. Originally this opulent townhouse off of the Boulevard Haussmann was the home of husband and wife art collectors Edouard Andre and Nelie Jacquemart. They spent a good deal of time traveling and purchasing art work for their Parisian home. Today you see the impressive collection they assembled over their respective lifetimes. There are Italian paintings, sculptures and architectural fragments from the Renaissance along Flemish and Dutch paintings. Not too mention an incredible assortment of French paintings, furniture and objet d’art from the 18th century. Definitely worth a visit. The museum’s cafe is the original dining room. You can enjoy a superb lunch (the food really is quite good) under a beautiful trompe l’oeil ceiling by Giambattista Tiepolo and surrounded by five exquisite tapestries woven in Brussels in the 18th century that narrate Achilles’ deeds during the Trojan war. Included in admission is an excellent audio guide. Lunch will cost extra, but worth every penny. I though the collection was impressive along with house especially the Winter Garden and the Grand Staircase, which took my breath away. It took me a couple hours to see everything. I took my time so I could really appreciate the collection and the setting, which I thought magically. I had a great lunch in the restaurant. Afterwards I took a stroll in the nearby Parc Moncea. I couldn’t imagine a more perfect day in Paris.
Musee National du Moyen Age houses a collection of medieval artifacts and the beautiful “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestry cycle. The six late 15th century Flemish mille-fluers tapestries are exquisite. Rich with color the tapestries are quite beautiful. The building itself is perfect for housing the collection because it was originally the home of the medieval abbots of Cluny. The remains of an ancient Roman Bath have been incorporated into the museum.
Musee de l’Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries is home to Monet’s Water Lilies. In addition to the water lilies there is an permanent collection on the lower level from the private collections of Paul Guillaume and Jean Walter. The collections includes works by Picasso, Modigliani, Matisse and other great painters of the 20th century. Definitely worth a visit and quite popular so try and arrive early.
Musee d’Orsav is one of the most the loveliest museums in the world and definitely warrants a visit. The collection covers works of art (painting, sculpture, furniture etc.) created between 1848 to 1914 including an impressive collection of Art Nouveau furniture and objet d’ art. The building is a former railway station; the vast train shed is ideal for displaying works of art especially sculpture. As with the Lourve, the d’Orsay is popular, so its best to arrive early. On the 2nd floor there is an elegant restaurant. The food is quite good and the cost for my lunch was 16.50 Euros for a main course and desert, which I thought was reasonable given the food and service. Even with a glass of wine and coffee lunch was still within reason. For more information on restaurant click on “Services” on the web site. After spending a couple of hours walking around the museum it’s nice to be able to sit down in a elegant setting and really enjoy a nice lunch and not have to rush about looking for a restaurant. I arrive around and got a table right away, but I did notice after a while there was line with people waiting for a table. I believe the restaurant 2:00 or 3:00 so it is best to arrive early. The web site has photos of the restaurant along with pricing and hours. If you are in the mood for a light lunch (a few minutes walk away) is Maison Kayser at 18 rue du Bac, a bakery/bar that serves delicious tartines (open sandwiches). They offer something like 15 or 20 different kinds of tartines using a variety of different types of bread. Believe me the sandwiches are heavenly. When you exit the museum turn left and walk to rue de Lille (it runs behind the museum), make another left, walk until you come to rue du Bac and make a right. A good deal if you are planning on visiting both the d’Orsay and the Rodin Museum is to purchase a combination ticket. You save a few Euros. The only thing is you have to visit both museums on the same day, which is doable. They also offer a combination ticket for the d’Orsay and the Musee de l’Orangerie. Once again you do save a couple of Euros. You might as well take advantage of as many deals as you can. As they say, a penny saved is a penny earned.
Musee Picasso (closed for renovation) along with the Musee Carnavalet are housed in palatial hotels (townhouses) in the Marais, which were built by the rich merchants and the aristocracy back in the 17th century. However, in no time at all the area became unfashionable and everyone fled to more fashionable accommodations elsewhere in the city. Today many of the grand residences have been restored and converted into museums, offices and apartments. The Musee Picasso is one of these townhouses. The collection includes paintings, sculptures and drawings.
The luxurious house the Musee Nissim de Camondo occupies was built in the early 20th century by Moise de Camondo to house his collection of mostly 18th century art, tapestries, furniture and objets d’art. No expense was spared to build this grand and palatial residence. The garden backs onto the Parc de Monceau. Museums like this fascinate me because usually they are left as if the owner had just stepped out for a moment. Even if 18th century decorative arts are not your cup of tea, you may still find this museum interesting in that it displays how a wealthy Parisian family lived at the turn of the century. If the weather a stroll through the Parc de Monceau is always pleasant and quite enjoyable.
Musee Rodin is fun to visit even if you are not a fan of sculptor because the garden is so wonderful And the perfect setting for some of Rodin’s most famous sculptors including The Kiss, The Thinker and The Burghers. Perhaps after your visit you will come away with a new appreciation of Rodin’s work. Of course the best time to visit is in Spring and Summer when the flower beds are filled with flowers. I could spend hours just wondering around the garden. It’s also nice to just sit down for awhile and take out a book and read. Below is a photo of part of the garden taken from the window on the 2nd floor of the house. The gardens extend all around the house.
Musee Bourdelle was the home and studio of the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle’s. He was a pupil of Rodin who later went on to become a famous artist in his own right. He was the one who sculpted the beautiful frieze for the Theatre des Champ Elysees. One of the loveliest Art Nouveau theaters in the world. If you have a chance you should see a performance, but be sure to book well in advance. On two occasions now I had tried to get tickets and both times the performances were sold out. However, getting back to the Musee Bourdelle. I am one of those people who really enjoy seeing were an artist worked or lived. I find it fascinating. On display are some of Bourdelle’s creations including a rather large man on a horse in the back garden. The sculptor is massive. The museum is a little out of the way, but well worth the trek. Below is one of Bourdelle’s sculptors called “The Archer”. There is another copy in Rome at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
There are a number of venues that host temporary art exhibitions including the The Grand Palais and the Musee National du Luxembourg. Check out their respective web sites for a schedule of current and upcoming exhibitions or to purchase tickets.
Entertainment
Paris does not lack in the area of performing arts, from theater to opera to dance to concerts to jazz clubs. There is something for everyone. Most of the theater performances are in French, but there are a few theater companies that perform in English. However, if you don’t feel your French is up to it you can always attend a concert. Two well regarded orchestras are the Orchestre National de France conducted by world renowned conductor Kurt Mauser and the Ensemble Orchestral de Paris. One of the most beautiful concert halls in Paris is the Chatelet - Theatre Musical de Paris. The performance schedule is posted on their web site (in French only). The Orchestre de Paris perform at the historic and recently restored Salle Pleyel. The web site has an English version. Opera and dance performances are held at the Opera-Bastille and the Palais Garnier respectively. You can purchase tickets online and the web site has an English version. Most operas are now performed at the modern Opera-Bastille, while the Palais Garnier is used for dance performances. Instead of going on a guided tour of the Palais Garnier, I feel it’s more fun to attend a performance in the evening. A guided tour in the daytime doesn’t have the same ambiance as attending a performance in the evening. Yes, you get to see the interior of the building, but the tour lacks the fun and excitement of a night out and the opportunity to stroll around the Grand Foyer and the beautiful reception rooms with a glass of champagne in your hand during intermission. You might say one of those once in a lifetime experiences. A fun thing to do after dinner is to go to one of the many jazz clubs. Two of my favorite clubs are Le New Morning, 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries, Tele: 01 45 23 51 41 and Les 7 Lezards 10 rue des Rosiers 01 48 87 08 97. If you understand French reasonably well and are in the mood a night of eating , drinking and laughter there is the Le Lapin Agile in Montmartre. Or you can see a film at one of the many cinemas. The French love film, so there is no paucity of cinemas. Some of which are grand Art Deco palaces.
Eglise St-Sulpice has one of the largest organs in Paris. The sound is simply sublime. You can attend free organ recitals. For a schedule of the recitals click on the link. If you have the time definitely worth going to see the organ and attend a recital. While you are there be sure to stop for a look at Delacroix’s Heliodorus Chased from the Temple, St. Michael Killing the Dragon and Jacob’s Fight with the Angle. Delacroix in his final years and in poor health moved to his final apartment/studio (now a museum) off the Rue de l’Abbaye to be near St-Sulpice in order to complete these paintings.
This was just a small sampling of things to do in Paris. Pariscope (there is a section in English) has a more complete listing of what’s happening (concerts, film, theater etc.). You will find this publication at most hotels. If the hotel does not have a copy try the local newsstand. The Time Out Paris’ Arts & Entertainment section as extensive listing of venues for Classical music (concerts, opera) and for Popular music (Rock, Blues, and Jazz).
Shopping
During the Christmas holiday season the large department stores Galeries Lafayette and Printemps put on quiye a show with their holiday lights and window displays. Near the Palais Garnier (the old opera house) a visit to Paris during the festive season would not be complete with an evening visit to one of both of the department stores. Below is a photo I took of the beautiful stained glass dome in the Galeries Lafayette. Other times of the year it is fun to visit as well especially the Galeries Lafayette's gourmet food department. A perfect place to find a gift for a foodie friend or relative or even better - a special gift for youself.
If you are like me and drink tea, one of my best shops to go for an excellent selection of teas is Mariage Freres on the rue du Bourg-Tibourg in the Marais. One of the oldest tea shops in Paris and by far offers one the largest selection of teas in Paris. Upstairs there is a quaint little museum devoted to tea. And in the back on the ground floor there is a wonderfully tea saloon decorated in the Neoclassical style. With the exchange rate these days it can be a little on the pricey side, but you are on vacation so you might has well indulge in some scrumptious pastries along with their delicious tea after a day of sightseeing. For exquisite chocolate head to Cacao et Chocolat. They have several locations around Paris including one in the Marais (36 rue Vieile-du-Temple) and another on St. Louis (63 rue St-Luis-en-l’lle).
Ladurée Paris has the most scrumptious macaroons at their takeaway counter and quite reasonable I might add. You can either enjoy them in their opulent and gorgeous restaurant on the Avenue Champs Elysées or purchase them along with other delicious pastries and other goodies in their shop. Everyone has heard of Berthillon’s famous gelato. In the summer the line get be quite long, but the good news is their gelatos are available at cafes around Paris. I enjoy their gelato; however, there are a couple of other places in the Marais that serve excellent gelato. One in particular, Amorino at 31 rue Vieille du Temple (right across the street from one my favorite places to stop in for coffee and a croissant in the morning, Le Petit Fer à Cheval) and the other one is right around the corner at 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile is Pozzetto. Nothing beats gelato on a beautiful Spring day or in the summer after wondering around Paris on a hot day.
For the best foie gras head to La Petite Scierie, 60 Rue Saint Louis Ile St. Louis. Owned by a couple who own a small farm in Burgundy. Catherine minds the shop in Paris while her husband, Paul runs the farm. You can sample the foie gras before buying. They also sell an excellent wine, Coteaux du Layon that goes quite well with the foie gras. Across the street at #51 is L'epicerie where you will find artisanal mustards and jams.
Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt - Ave de la Porte de Clignancourt, 18th arrondissement. Metro: Number 4 line, Porte de Clignancourt. The largest of the Parisian flea markets with over 2,500 vendors. You can find practically anything imaginable for sale. If you don’t have a lot of time to visit all the markets scattered around Paris, this is the best market to visit due to the variety of goods for sale. Open Saturday - Monday from (official hours) 7:00 am - 7:30 pm. Not all stalls open early or stay open late so there really is no need to wake up at the crack of dawn. You can leisurely have your café crème and croissant, arriving around 9 am or 10 am. People do say the earlier the better, I partly agree with this statement, but at the same time it’s difficult to find really great deals because dealers with their extensive knowledge tend to snap things up before the causal shopper has a chance. If you are on holiday and only interested in picking up a little souvenir, I don’t see bothering about getting too early. Something to note, you might find the best bargains on Monday, since the sellers want to unload as much stuff as they can before the next market. The downside is of course Saturday and Sunday are the busiest days, so people have had the weekend to pick over the goods. My general feeling is you can always haggle over price. Generally people will accept a reasonable offer. So go on the weekend for the best selection. Now if you are really into markets there is a wonderful book called Markets of Paris by Dixon and Ruthanne Long, published in 2006. Even if something was just published, I still like to check to make sure I have the most up-to-date information on restaurants etc. while planning my trip. Detailed and thorough the markets are organized by arrondissements and includes restaurant recommendations. I like markets and shopping in general, so I found having a book that specifically focuses on markets extremely useful as opposed to just relying on a general guidebook.