Lodging | Eating|Shopping | Museums | Entertainment|Travel Store

VeniceOnce again I would like to extend a warm welcome to GoingEuro.com. I have included travel guides (in the Travel Store) that I like to use, along with restaurants, accommodations and shops that I am partial to; in addition to, web sites that I found useful or just interesting. I have also assembled a diverse assortment of information from getting into Venice from the airport to where to buy an authentic Venetian mask to take home as a souvenir of your trip.

Venice is one of my favorite cities. I never compare Venice to Rome, Paris or New York because each city is unique and deserves to be appreciated for what each individual city has to offer. My preferred time to visit is during the off season. Less crowds and less humidity. August can be crowded and humid. Granted towards the end of November can be cold, wet and damp and you might have to put up with flooding, but usually the water goes down fairly quickly. For me the empty streets (or near empty, you will always run across at least a cat) affords me the opportunity to admire the architecture and really think about the people and the history of “la Serenìsima” without being bothered or jostled. With less people you will also be able to get a good look and enjoy the artwork and mosaics without feeling rushed in places like St. Marks Basilica and The Doge Palace. I do admit, if I am visiting in November, December or January, I do bring a couple of warm sweaters. Churches and large scuolas such as Scuola Grande di San Rocco can especially be chilly in the winter months. I find dressing in layers is the way to go. As with most things in life, it’s a trade off. I prefer to go when there are less people so I can appreciate the artwork in relative peace. Of course there are exceptions, for example going to the Venice Biennale Art Festival (usually is held from June to November). September would be the ideal time to go. Some of the art installations are housed in the cavernous buildings of the old arsenal where they built ships. Though the buildings have been updated for use as exhibition spaces they are still too large to heat properly,  especially given the Venetian climate. I attended the Biennale towards the end of November (actually on the last day), it was a little chilly walking through the exhibitions house in the old arsenal buildings. Another exception would be to visit at least once in the summer to see and experience the Lido. After seeing the film, Death in Venice I have always dreamed in staying at one of the grand hotels on the Lido. One day I shall. And on the Lido you probably get more of a breeze making it more comfortable and  cooler than in Venice proper. In the Winter the hotels are closed. Since the Lido faces the Adriatic, I am sure it can be quite windy and chilly. Yet it might be enjoyable walking along the beach with a brisk wind blowing and the waves crashing. I guess it shows life is what you make it. You can find beauty and enjoyment in anything if you put your mind to it.

I would like to thank you in advance if you purchase any books or other products through GoingEuro.com. Your support is greatly appreciated.

The airport (Marco Polo) is located on the mainland. The quickest and most comfortable way to arrive in Venice is by water taxi; unfortunately, this mode of transportation is expensive. An alternative and considerably cheaper option is the water bus service run by Alilaguna srl.  If my wallet can take the shock. I opt for the water taxi. One reason, it’s a great way to arrive in a city that is built in the middle of a lagoon and the other reason is you get dropped off at your hotel or at least within a short walking distance. After a particularly long flight it’s a godsend not to have to lug your luggage about. Also the water bus does take longer because there are more than one stop.  Something to consider when deciding whether or not to take a water taxi. Sometimes it’s worth spending a little extra if you can fit it into your budget.

Venicelink.com offers discounted tickets for Alilaguna public lines and private water taxis.

Getting around Venice is not only easy, but enjoyable as well because it’s one of the most beautiful and sublime cities in the world. You can wonder around forVenice hours in total bliss. There are no cars or bicycles to worry about or draw your attention away from the splendid architecture. You can be total oblivious and not worry about getting run over. In case you need to get across the Grand Canal and are not near one of the bridges that span the canal or you are in a hurry  there are the traghetti (six locations). Basically a gondola with none of the fancy accouterments (usually you stand up) that ferry people across from one side to the other side. For longer distances or to get to the other islands, such as Murano or Burano there are water buses called vaperatto. For questions regarding  the public transportation system go to ACTV (there is an English version). A good way to see the facades of the fabulous palazzos that line the Grand Canal is a trip on the Vaporetto line number 82 starting at the train station. Below is a photo of a traghetti crossing the Grand Canal. I have no idea why the photo is crooked. I took it in the morning so I could not have had too much “vino”. Oh well - one of life’s mysteries. 

The Venice Card is a great value. Available in 1 day, 3 day and 7 day passes. Among the benefits the card offers is unlimited travel on the public transportation system and admission to 16 churches and 12 city museums including the following:

You can purchase the card online through the Hellovenezia website. If you are planning on doing a lot of sight seeing the card is well worth it. Using the vaporetto can add up. Single ride tickets are expensive, so it makes sense if you are going to be using the public often to opt for a card. You can also purchase tickets to cultural events such as concerts through Hellovenezia

You can also purchase the card at the main tourist office Azienda di Promozione Turistica, Piazza San Marco 71f located on the western side of the piazza across from the entrance to the Museo Correr. Open Monday - Saturday from 9:00am to 3:30pm.

La Biennale di Venice (The Venice Biennale) - This link will take you to their web site (English version). I don’t get “most” of the art, but I have to say it was a pretty interesting experience. And there were some pieces I liked.

The Venice Film Festival - Never been, but it sounds fun. Perhaps one day. (English version)

The Venetian Carnival - Talking about a fun and exciting time to be in Venice. Everyone should experience this at least once. I do think the high point was the wild and crazy 80’s and 90’s. In recent years due to budget restraints the public activities have been cut. I am sure there are still tons of private parties in those opulent and over-the-top palazzos. The site has information on the next carnival in 2009 and past  carnivals as well. 

Atelier Flavia - An excellent source for a costume for the festivities. The web site is in Italian.

Avventure Bellissime - Offers guided walking tours of Venice.

Two worthwhile organizations (one American, one British) who raise money to help protect Venice for future generations are SaveVenice and Venice in Peril respectively. To learn more and to find out how you can help to protect and preserve Venice check out their web sites

Are you in the market for a gondola? Or would you just like to know a little but more about these intriguing boats? Well, in either case you might want to take a look at Squero Canaletto. You will be able to actually purchase a gondola or if you are not in the market for one just learn about the history and construction of this fascinating water craft.

Speaking of gondolas, a trip to Venice would not be complete without a trip down the canals in one. Granted it is a little pricey, but the experience is worth the expense. There are a number of places throughout the city where you can hire a gondola, just look for the word “stazio”. The biggest stands are located around St. Marks Square including the Bascino Orseolo (located behind the square), the Calle Vallaresso (west of St. Marks Square), and the Molo (directly in front of the Doge’s Palace). For the official rates pick up a copy of Un Ospite a Venezia (A Guest in Venice). Be sure to finalize the cost before departing. Goes the same for water taxies . VeniceWord International - Sends out a newsletter via e-mail that will keep you up-to-date with news stories and what’s happening such as exhibits, concerts, theater and so on.

Top of Page

Best Brands. Best Prices. Free Shipping On All Ord

Lodging

The Locanda San Barnaba is a charming small hotel housed in a beautifully restored  palazzo. The rooms are lovely (some rooms have frescos on the ceiling) and the price - quite reasonable. I found the staff friendly. My room on the second floor (one of the ones with a frescoed ceiling) was clean and nicely furnished. Breakfast is included in the cost of the room and served in the rustic breakfast room that looks out onto the garden which backs onto a small canal. If you decide to take a water taxi when you leave for the airport they can pull up to the hotel via the back garden, so there is no need to lug your luggage about. The hotel is located off of the Campo San Barnaba in the Dorsoduro on a quiet street. The Ca’ Rezzonico vaporetto stop is close by allowing for easy access to public transportation. You are a hop, skip and a jump from the Accademia. One reason I like this area is it has a real neighborhood feel to it and not overly touristy like the area around St. Marks Square and the Rialto yet  both are  within easy walking distance from the hotel. For more information check out their web site (in English).

Novecento is another small charming hotel and is located off the Campo San Maurizio, near the Campo Santo Stefano and a short walk from the Piazza San Marco. Slightly more expensive than the Locanda San Barnaba, but they do offer special deals so be sure to check out their website. The Novecento pays homage to Mariano Fortuny and the decor is an eclectic mix of styles reminiscent of India and Morocco. The rooms are fun and interesting with up-to-date bathrooms. A breakfast buffet is included in the cost of the room. The central location is convenient to the major sights including The Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Basilica Di San Marco. For more information check out their web site (in English).

On my last trip to Venice I rented an apartment on the Grand Canal. The company I went through was Venice Rental. I was extremely happy with the service andSan Marco Square at Night I loved the apartment, which was located right on the Grande Canal. On the web site the apartment is the “Apartment Grand Canal”. The greeter was professional and helpful. She even recommended a few restaurants. The apartment was located on the piano noble with high ceilings were high and there was a balcony with a great view of the Grand Canal. I loved just sitting in the living room with the windows open listening o the water lapping against the palazzo and the gondolas moored outside. Such a Venetian experience. One of my best holidays. We went with another couple and split the cost so it really wasn't’t too terribly expensive. And you only live once. You might as well enjoy life.

When I find a hotel I like, I check on PricelineEurope just to make sure I am getting the best price.

PricelineEurope.com - Discount Hotels in 53 Countries Worldwide

Top of Page

Restaurants

The quality of food in Venice can vary from really great food to well - mediocre. Look for restaurants frequented by both tourists and locales. I have been fortunate to have eaten in only a couple of really terrible restaurants. Most of my dinning experiences in Venice have been wonderful, great good and great service. When I travel I tend to try to stay off the beaten path so to speak. Dorsoduro is one of my favorite areas because it still has a neighborhood feel to it. Always check out the menu (if posted) to see the prices. And don’t be afraid to ask the price of the specials on the menu if the prices are not listed. For opening and closing times contact the restaurant via telephone or their  web site. Generally speaking trattorie and bacari that are popular with the locales usually serve lunch from around 12:00 to 2:00 and dinner from around 7:00 to 9:00. More upscale restaurants stay open a little later for lunch and serve dinner till 10:00 or 11:00 and stay open . I usually aim for 1 o’clock for lunch and 8:00 o’clock for dinner . After dinner I like to stop in a bar for a nightcap. 

Al Gondolieri, San Vio, Dorsoduro Tele: 41 528 6396. A hop, skip and jump from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Upscale restaurant. Does not serve fish, so a good alternative for those looking for a non-fish restaurant. The food and service are outstanding. It’s expensive, but the food is quite good. A nice change from traditional Venetian cuisine. Reservations advisable.

Antica Locanda Montin, Fondamenta Eremite, S. Trovaso, Dorsoduro Tele: 041 522 7151. Traditional Venetian cuisine. Moderately priced. Friendly service. Not far from the Campo San Barnaba.

Antiche Carampane, Rio tera delle Carampane Tele: 41 524 0165.  Seafood. Moderate to expensive. Not easy to find, but worth seeking out. Part of the charm is trying to find the restaurant. Reservations advisable.    

Ai Quattro Ferri, Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2754/a Dorsoduro   Tele: 041 520 6978. Extremely popular osteria. Casual setting, delicious seafood and pasta dishes. Reasonably priced given the food and service. Reservations essential. If you are in the area stop by during lunch to make a reservation.

Cantinon gia Schiave, Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro (across from the San Trovaso Gondola repair shop and around the corner from the Academia). One of the best bacari in Venice. Like the locales you stand (there are no tables), while munching on these delectable little crostini, small pieces of toasted bread topped with a variety of toppings. A nice selection of wine by glass is available. I decided to just go with the house wine by the glass, which was quite good. You eat and drink till you are full. They also offer sandwiches. In all you can’t beat the price. Popular with locales who stop by for a quick bit to eat and a glass or two of wine.

La Furatola, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro Tele: 041 520 8594. Specialty: Fish. Casual, friendly service. Reasonably priced. It’s a small restaurant and tends to fill up pretty quickly, so reservations are a must.

Muro Vino e Cucina, Campo Cesare Battisti, San Polo Tele: 41 523 7495. Creative Venetian dishes with a changing menu. Busy wine bar on the ground floor and ultramodern restaurant on the second floor. You start off the evening with a complimentary glass of prosecco and a small starter. Perfect way to start off a meal. And don’t forget desert. I would opt for for one of the scrumptious deserts, instead of a cheese course. Moderately priced. Near the Rialto Bridge and the Fabbriche Vecchie.

Osteria Alla Staff, Calle de l’Ospealeto, Castello Tele: 41 5239160. Family run. Popular with the locales. Reasonably priced, good simple meals. A nice place to stop off for lunch after visiting San Giovanni e Paolo.

Ostaria al Garanghelo, Calle dei Botteri, San Polo Tele: 41 721 721. Reasonably priced Osteria/bacaro. I had lunch here. I was quite satisfied with both the food and service.

Ristoteca Oniga, Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro Tele: 041 522 4410. Traditional Venetian cuisine (seafood and meat dishes). Family run restaurant. Great food, terrific service and nice ambiance. On the southwest corner of the Campo San Barnaba. Reservations advisable. Try and aim for 8 o’clock.

Paolin, Campo Santo Stefano 2962, San Marco. If you are in the mood for homemade ice cream than this is the place to come. Sit down at one of the outdoor tables, order a scoop or two of delicious homemade ice cream and enjoy not only the ice cream, but  the splendid setting and the beautiful gothic church of S. Stefano.

Top of Page

Museums and Art Exhibitions

Some museums are not open on Monday and others close at 2:00pm. Also the opening times very depending on the season.

Musei Civici Veneziani web site (there is an English version) has information on the following museums along with information on facilities for Scholars, Exhibitions and Events, Educational Services...

The large churches of  l Frari (Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari), San Zanipolo (The Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Polo), La Salute (Santa Maria della Salute) and of course San Marco (Basilica di San Marco) all contain impressive works of art from mosaics to paintings to stain glass windows (rarity in Venice) to funeral monuments. The smaller parish churches (chiesa) also contain  some beautiful  works of art including the Chiesa Madonna dell’Orto, which contains several works by Tintoretto. This was his parish church. On the outside of most churches (near the main entrance) you will find a plaque that lists the artists who’s works you will find inside.

Note: The opening and closing times of churches vary from church to church.

VeniceDuring my last trip I popped into the Church of San Zaccaria near San Marco late afternoon on a dark and rainy day and let me tell you the ambiance was just wonderful. You could still see the paintings and of course there are lights (for a small fee), but it was interesting to visit the church under such conditions. There was even a damp little crypt that I enjoyed exploring. On my next trip, I plan on going in the daytime preferably on sunny day to really get a good look at paintings, some of which were done by Bellini, Tintoretto & Tiepolo.  

The following are just some of my favorite museums:

Ca' Rezzonico (Dorsoduro), displays the city owned collection of 18th Venetian art. First opened as a public in 1936 it showcases the Venetian decorative arts of the 18th century. Within you will find antique furniture, Murano glass, ceilings by Tiepolo and paintings by such artists as Giovanni Antonio Guardi and Pietro Longhi. Sometimes it's difficult to appreciate the beauty of Venetian baroque because it can be over the top. However, when displayed in a baroque palazzo on the Grand Canal in Venice you cannot help to admire and see the beauty. There is also perhaps one of the loveliest ballrooms in Venice with a magnificent ceiling and walls in trompe l'oeil where concerts are held. On the third floor in the attic (low ceilings and basic in decoration) there is a collection of paintings that span the 15th - 20th centuries along with reconstruction of an 18th century pharmacy and laboratory using original materials such as furniture and paneling. Concerts are held here from time to time. In the back there is a lovely garden where you can have a nice relaxing rest after your visit. Closed on Tuesdays. I still remember vividly my first visit in 1996. In was late in the day and the sun had gone done. Inside the palazzo was a glow with light that created a magical setting for one of Venice's opulent palazzos.

Casa di Goldoni, once the home of the Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni. but now houses the Institute for Theatrical  Studies. The only down side is everything is in Italian. There is no English translations, but if your Italian isn't’t up to par the courtyard of the palazzo is worth a peak. Concerts are held here. For a schedule check out the Foundation of Venice's (in collaboration with the City of Venice - Department of Culture) website.

The Collezione Peggy Guggenheim doesn't’t contain paintings by Titian or Tiepolo, but it does contain an interesting collection of modern art including a large number of Surrealist paintings collected by the eccentric American Peggy Guggenheim. She purchased the unfinished palazzo in the 1940’s and spent the rest of her life here. One of the last private individuals to own a gondola (purple no less). You can see her gondola at the The Museo Navale. The museum fronts the Grand Canal, there is a terrace with a wonderful view looking towards Piazza San Marco. Definitely worth at least one visit. The photo below is looking towards the Santa Maria della Salute. To the right is a low white building, this is the unfinished Palazzo Venier dei Leoni that houses the Guggenheim collection. The terrace jets out a little into the Grand Canal.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia houses a library, an modern exhibition space and a small delightful museum (closed on Mondays) housed in a 16th century palazzo. Flemish, Italian and Venetian paintings from the 14th to 19th century along with period furnishings (sculptures, furniture and so on). Count Giovanni Querini Stampalia, the last of a noble venetian family and at one time one of the riches families in Venice. In the 1960's the Venetian born architect Carlo Scarpa modernized part of the building including the ground floor and garden. In the 1990's one of his pupils, Mario Botta, made additional changes to the building including covering the courtyard and adding a new staircase. On the top floor is a modern space used for exhibitions and lectures, howe, the piano nobile (second floor) retains the charm of a bygone era and houses the museum. Concerts are held in baroque splendor in the Music Room .

The collection of the Gallerie dell’Accademia (The Academy of Fine Arts) chronicles the development of Venetian painting from the Renaissance until 18th Century when the Republic came to an end. Venice produced some of the Renaissance’s best painters including Titian, Tintorreto, Tiepolo, Carpaccio. All are represented in the collection.

Galleria Franchetti holds a collection of Veneto Byzantine Art from the 11th century - 13th centuries. Perhaps the collection’s finest work is Mantegna’s painting of St. Sebastian. The collection is housed in the beautiful Ca’ d’Oro. Both the building and the collection are definitely worth visiting.  

Museo del Settecento Veneziano is housed in the Ca’ Rezzonico, a masterpiece of Baroque architecture completed when the Venetian republic was in decline. The palazzo was restored in the 1930s. Furnished with furniture and other decorative items that a 18th century Venetian noble might have used to furnish his own palatial palazzo. During the most recent renovation the third and fourth floors were renovated to accommodate the collection of Egidio Martini. This remarkable collection includes Venetian paintings from the 17th and 18th century. 

Museo Correr holds an impressive collection of artifacts and documents that relate to the Venetian Republic. The art gallery includes paintings by both Venetian and European painters. Along with admission to this museum your ticket includes admission to the Doge Palace, Museo Archeologico and the Biblioteca Marciana.

Museo Vetrario (glass Museum) is quite interesting. After walking around the museum you will see why Venice is renowned for her glass industry. If you are thinking about purchasing Murano glass try Barovier & Toso. One of the oldest firms, they specialize in traditional designs.

Palazzo Fortuny houses a museum dedicated to Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo. He was perhaps most famous for his textile designs including his famous delphos dresses. But he was also a painter, photographer and set designer. Early in the 20th Century he bought this palazzo for use as both his home and studio.  Today, it contains a collection of his work that showcases his  rich artistic life in a truly magical and theatrical setting. Temporary exhibitions are also held here. For more information click on the link.

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is filled painting  by Tintoretto who spent more than 20 years decorating the meeting rooms. If you are visiting in November, December or January be sure to dress warmly. The space is large and there are high ceilings. With Venice’s damp climate it can be a little chilly inside the scuola.

The Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni contains one of two of Carpaccio’s truly remarkable Venetian picture cycles. The other one is in the Academia. This one illustrates the lives of the Dalmatian saints George (of the dragon fame), Tryphone and Jerome. Unlike the Scuola San Rocco the meeting rooms  are smaller and more intimate. And this is still a functioning scuola, so members till meet in the second floor meeting room. 

For contemporary art there is the Palazza Grassi and the Punta Della Dogana, Venice's 17th century custom warehouses that have been converted into space to display contemporary art. Exhibitions are all or part of the large collection of François Pinaul. tClosed on Tuesday.

Top of Page

Entertainment

Venice unlike  Rome does not have a thriving and robust nightlife. In comparison Venice is rather  sedate, but in a way that is part of her charm and there are things to do to while away the evening. For example, taking a stroll around the peaceful and quiet city free of the day trippers and perhaps stopping off for a late night drink at a traditional bacari. There are a couple of cinemas scattered throughout the city in case you are in the mood to take in a film. There is the Teatro Goldoni (plays in Italian) and dance performances at the Teatro Fondamenta Nuove. You can enjoy an opera in one of the most beautiful theaters in the world, Teatro La Fenice. Be sure to check to see what is playing before you leave. Tickets sell out quickly so it is best to book in advance.  Before seeing an opera or a concert you can have a drink at the opulent setting of the Hotel Danieli. Below is a photo me having a drink at the Hotel Danieli. I am a little fuzzy, but what can you do. Hopefully I don’t look too bad.  Concerts are also held at the Teatro Malibran, recently reopened after undergoing an extensive renovation. Occasionally concerts are held at the Fondazione Querini Stampalia, a beautiful palazzo dating from the 16th century. There is an interesting art collection along with an extensive library. During the 1960’s the ground floor and gardens were remodeled by Carlo Scarpa. On my last trip, I attended a concert at the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista. I had a delightful time. Keep a lookout for posters dotted around the city advertising concerts in churches and scuolas. Before the concert I had dinner at a charming restaurant near the Friar. After the concert I had coffee and dessert at one of my favorite cafes, Caffe Florian - located on the Piazza San Marco. Granted it is pricey and touristy, but you can’t put the setting. Though I do try (not very successfully) to limit myself to (2) visits per trip. As I mentioned earlier concerts are held in many of the churches including the l Frair, Santo Stefano & La Pieta. As you can see there are plenty of things to do in Venice in the evenings. For a complete listing of things to do consult the publications I mentioned on the main page. One of the travel guides I listed, Time Out Venice has an excellent section on Performing Arts and Music/Nightlife.

For a late night drink and light entertainment there are a few options including:

Linea d’Ombra, Punta della Dogana, Zattere 12 (Dorsoduro). Piano bar, restaurant with Jazz on weekends. Open 8:00am-2:00am closed Weds & Sun.

Paradiso Perduto (Paradise Lost), Fondamenta della Misericordia 2540 (Cannaregio). Mostly salsa and jazz. Open late with live music on Fridays and Sundays.

Bagolo, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa Croce (Santa Croce).
Campo Santa Margerita in the Dorsoduro is extremely popular with locals, tourists and students alike. Several bars and cafes are open late including Orange and Margaret Duchamp.

For those who like classical music or a more relax ambiance there is Ai Miracoli, Campielo Dei Miracoli (Cannaregio). Cozy, a great place to come for a drink. The booths in the back have a great view of the beautiful church Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Below is a photo of the church. It is not a very good photo, but you can see the beautiful materials used in the construction along with the workmanship of the intricate carvings. The inside is stunning, covered in so many different types of marble.

Shopping

Barbieri Arabesque, Ponte dei Greci 3403 (Castello) Tele: 041 5228177 10L00am-7:30pm. Nearest vaporetto stop: San Zaccaria. Beautiful scarves, wool shawls, ties, cravats and ascots. Open 10:00am to 7:30pm.

Bressanelo Artstudio, Calle Lunga Tele: 41 724 1080. Off the Campo San Barnaba. I purchase a beautiful print of a photograph here as a souvenir on my trip.

Drogheria Mascari, Ruga degli Spezieri 381 (San Polo) Tele: 041 5229762. Nearest vaporetto stop: San Silvestro. Spices, teas/coffees, wine and specialty items such as balsamic vinegar, truffles, olive oils and son. Open Monday, Tuesday & Thursday-Saturday from 8:00am to 1:00pm and on Wednesday from 8:00am to 1:00pm.

Gilberto Penzo, Calle 2 dei Saoneri 2681 (San Polo) Tele: 041 719372. Nearest vaporetto stop: San Toma. The owner is an expert on Venetian boats. You can buy wooden boat models and kits. I purchased a gondola model kit to take home. I spent hours putting it together and now I have wonderful little keepsake of my trip to Venice.  Open Monday-Saturday from 9:00am to 12:30pm 3-6pm.

Il Gufo Artigiano, Ruga del Speziali 299 (San Polo) Tele: 041 5234030. Nearest vaporetto stop: Rialto. Beautiful hand tooled leather goods such as albums, journals wallets and handbags. Modern abstract designs based on ironwork found on Venetian windows.  Open Monday-Saturday from 10:00am to 3:30pm.  

La Ricerca, Ponte delle Ostreghe, San Marco Tele: 041 5228250. Nice selection of photo albums covered in marbled paper. Venice

Mistero Buffo, S. Basegio, Dorsoduro Tele: 41 523 8719. Off the Fondamenta Zattere. Wonderful little mask shop near the Church of San. Sebastino. The masks are handmade in Venice by the owner of the shop. I like to support local craftspeople. Ca’ Macana, Calle della Botteghe (located over a bridge off the Campo San Barnaba), Dorsoduro 3172. The shop has an excellent selection and one of the largest stocks of fantasy and commedia dell’arte masks in Venice. They also offer classes where you can actually make a mask. Another good mask shop in terms of variety both modern and traditional in the Dorsoduro is Mondonovo, Rio Tera Canal (off Campo Santa Margherita). Of course you will find masks shops all over Venice. I personally like the three shops I mentioned, but I also like to hunt around for little “mom and pop” shops that sell and make the masks themselves. I like to try and support the little guy as well as the larger shops as long as the masks are made in Venice by Venetian craftsman.

VizioVirtù, Calle del Campaniel 2898a (San Polo) Tele: 041 2750149. Nearest vaporetto stop: San Toma. Artisanal chocolates. Definitely the place to go to get your daily fix of chocolate.

When I rented an apartment across two supermarkets. First one is Billa, on the Fondamenta Zattere Ponte Lungo (near the San Basilio vaporetto stop) in Dorsoduro and is open seven days a week. The other supermarket, Punto Sma, is also located in the Dorsoduro on the Campo Santa Margherita, but is closed on Sunday. A little difficult to find since you there are no street numbers in Venice. The supermarket is on the west side of the campo. Start from from the north end of the campo and start walking along the west side towards the church l Carmini and you will find it. A large open air market that sells fresh fish, herbs, fruits and vegetables is held at the Fabbriche Nuove, Fabbriche Vecchie and Campo d. Pescaria (near the Rialto) in San Polo, in the mornings Monday - Saturday. I cooked a couple times and this is where I came for ingredients. There is also a butcher off the Piazza Erbaria. As you are walking towards the Fabbriche Vecchie coming from the Rialto the shop will be on your left and the Grand Canal will be on your right. You will also find several bakeries in the area as well. For basic and everyday items I went to the supermarket, but for fish, vegetables and so fourth, I prefer fresh markets over supermarkets. However, you do have to be practical and a large supermarket does to stock a lot items including nonfood items. Of course for poultry and meats I much prefer to go to a good butcher and a good bakery for bread. You cannot beat a fine cut of veal or fresh baked bread.

Films shot in Venice

Bread & Tulips (Pane e tulipani) (2000). A hilarious romantic comedy.  Rosalba Barletta is a perfect housewife married to a two timing husband who doesn't’t appreciate her. Left behind at a bus stop (the family is on one of those bus tours of southern Italy) she decides to hitchhike home, but decides to take a vacation away from her family. She heads to Venice where she gets a job at a florists shops, rents a room from an unhappy waiter. It’s available through Netflix.

The Comfort of Strangers (1990) based on a novel by Ian McEwan and the screenplay was written by Harold Pinter with Christopher Walken, Rupert Everett, Natasha Richardson and Helen Mirren.

Death in Venice (1971) based on Thomas Mann's novella, directed by Luchino Visconti with a stellar performance by Dirk Bogarde. There are some great scenes of Venice and the Lido.

Don't Look Now (1973) based on a story by Daphne Du Maurie with Julie Christie and Donald Sutherland. There is one pretty intense sex scene, so it’s not for everyone. However, it’s a dark thriller filled with suspense and some beautiful shots of Venice in winter.  

Suumertime (1955) directed by David Lean with Katherine Hepburn and Rossano Brazzi. It's about an unmarried woman from the Midwest who visits Venice for the first time and falls in love with a married Italian man. I first saw this film back in the 1980s, one of the first films that really boasted my desire to visit Venice. I bought the film and every time I watch it and Katherine Hepburn is on the train crossing the lagoon heading into Venice, it brings my own wonderful experience when the first time I was on a train and crossing the bridge going into Venice

The Wings of the Dove (1997) based on a novel by Henry James with Helena Bonham Carter. Charlotte Rampling is terrific as a domineering aunt. The palazzo Millie Theale rents in Venice is the Palazzo Barbaro where Henry James stayed when he visited Venice.

The Merchant of Venice (2004) with Al Pacino as Shylock and filmed in Venice. I liked the film a lot and thought Al Pacino's performance was pretty good. Two of my favorite things: Shakespeare and Venice.